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EPIC KENYA WITH SAM WALLACE
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Sam Wallace
As a guide, wildlife enthusiast and photographer, there are a handful of special sightings that I try to plan for. Generally speaking, I take what Africa delivers and love every second. If around the next corner is a rare and colourful bird, I am as enthusiastic about that as if there were a big bull elephant displaying his strength and prowess. If there is an eruption of termites that then attracts various insect eating creatures, I love to dive straight in to the various interactions and strategies at work in nature. And no doubt all these scenarios will offer some fantastic photographic opportunities, there remains in my mind, a handful of sightings I wish to see.
One of these ‘quests’ came about after hearing whisperings of a black leopard in central Kenya, roughly four years ago. To cut a long story short, I visited and revisited the area where this leopard had been seen over the next three years. Towards the end of 2022, it seems my luck was in, firstly (and most importantly) my other half agreed to marry me while we were in Kenya, and then the following day came the sighting I had been picturing in my mind for so long.
Knowing this leopards home range took in a beautiful river and a couple of rocky outcrops, we took a few G &T’s just before sunset and headed up one of the rocky outcrops. Scanning around with binoculars revealed a herd of elephants moving along the river, a sneaky hyena getting set for the night ahead and a couple of cute but nervous dik-diks (a tiny antelope species) moving through the bushes at the base of the rocks. The stage was set for an evening of drama that only Africa can serve up. Drinks finished and dusk closing in, it was time to head into the night.
After a quick 5 minute drive down to the river, really close to camp, we sat and scanned with the spotlight to see what the night would reveal to us. Barely another 5 minutes into it and a shadow moved in the light. And it continued to move. There she was, a jet black leopard slinking out of the darkness towards us. I couldn’t believe my eyes, and she was coming closer to us. I took the opportunity to get a few good shots, but I also made myself watch and take in the whole scene, and how beautiful she was. You could even see the classic leopard spots shimmering through her black coat.
Just as I thought this sighting couldn’t get any more special, a ‘normal’ coloured leopard showed up! It turns out this was the mother of the black leopard, and they tolerated each other as they moved through the bush. There was even a moment when they lined up next to each other as they walked over a rock. Unfortunately for me, I was not quick enough to capture this fleeting image, but it is burned into my memory as seeing a black leopard juxtaposed against her yellow spotty mother was just amazing.
We were careful not to spend too much time with her as she was off hunting, but over a four day period we saw her for three nights in a row and one morning just after sunrise.
I’ve been lucky enough to be shortlisted for the Wildlife Photographer of the Year from the UK Natural History Museum for the night time shot above I managed to take of her amazing eyes in all the blackness. That really is the cherry on top for me fulfilling this particular quest of mine, to see and photograph a black leopard. The next few quests should reveal some more equally interesting wildlife sightings. We all have things we want to see and experience, and the only way to do so is to get out there and give them a go! SW
A chat with Sam about this incredible sighting.
Explore our sample excursions and reach out to initiate the planning of your unique adventure.
10 nights classic Kenya
After arrival into Nairobi this itinerary takes you on the quintessential East African Safari of grassy savannahs, dotted with umbrella acacia thorn trees, filled with animals and colourful nomadic pastoralist cattle herders along the way. Amboseli, the Mara and a chance of seeing one of the world's most sought after animals, the beautiful black leopards of Laikipia.
Kenya 10 nights family safari
A sampling of Kenya's best, including the Maasai Mara. Amazing camps and lodges. A safari that works really well for multi-generation families.
11 nights Adventure Kenya
For the adventure lovers. A multi award winning walking safari in eastern Laikipia, alongside camels, with a chance at seeing wild dogs and rare grevy's zebras. Seeing elephant herds from your e-bike at Kifaru. Walking along the famous Mara river at Tangulia. A safari of high engagement and interaction with Kenya's famed wilderness spaces.
For previous generations, Kenya might be known for Out of Africa, the movie that won the Oscar for best picture in 1986. 20 years before it was Born Free that captured the hearts of millions. It's where the safari industry and conservation truly found its wings in east Africa.
From touchdown in Nairobi, Kenya offers an extraordinary array of adventures and cultural experiences. It's also a wonderful destination for family holidays with some fantastic options for children.
Maasai Mara. Amboseli. Lake Nakuru. Samburu. Mount Kenya. Lake Turkana. There are over 50 national parks and reserves in Kenya.
A snack pack of stories and tips from Epic staff.
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