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EPIC JOURNAL

Epic Everest โ€“ Update 18 Acclimatisation Rotation 2

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Epic Everest Update 18

written by: Brad Horn 8 May 2018

Our second acclimatisation rotation 2 is now complete.

Looking to the Lhotse Face

 

Acclimatisation Rotation 2 update.

I am just back down to Base Camp having completed our second โ€œrotationโ€ up the mountain.

We managed to โ€œtouchโ€ Camp 3, which is halfway up the Lhotse Face between 7100-7400 metres.ย  Pretty awesome!ย  Amazing climbing that massive icewall.ย  Undoubtedly the highlight of the trip so far.ย  That said, bloody cold. 20 knot winds whipping across our front!

We spent the past 4 nights at Camp 2 (6500 metres). Winds up high have been blowing strongly. When you lie in your sleeping bag at night you can hear the roar of the jet stream on Everest and Lhotse. It is very humbling to say the least.

Our Sherpa team have been very busy establishing our higher camps 3 & 4. Over the last few days they have taken numerous loads of oxygen bottles up to the South Col where Camp 4 is positioned at just over 8000 metres.

These guys are incredible.ย  Lumping loads of 20+ kgs, they typically set off at 3.00 in the morning and are back in Camp by mid-late afternoon.ย  They ascend 1500 vertical metres in a day.ย  Bear in mind that they donโ€™t climb with supplementary oxygen.ย  I am in absolute awe of our Sherpa support team.ย  Loyal to a man, they never complain and just do what they do, be it cooking meals or humping loads.ย  They move effortlessly up and down the mountain leaving us well and truly in their wake.

A summit attempt

So, now it is a waiting game for ropes to be fixed to the summit and the right weather window.

The ropes are presently fixed to around the South Col.ย  Hopefully they will be close to complete by weeks end.ย  The rope fixing is a combined effort on behalf of the major climb teams who donate resources and manpower to make it happen.ย  We have 3 Sherpas โ€œfixingโ€.ย  It is a big deal for them to get to the summit first in the season.ย  They then come back down and join their climb teams and in all likelihood summit a second time.

I am well and despite still having a little cough I am very happy with where Iโ€™m at with my acclimatisation. ย Feeling strong and very much looking forward to our summit bid.

It is unlikely that we will be going anywhere for 7-10 days at least. This is not a bad thing given there are lots of coughs going around our climb team.ย  This waiting period is mandatory to get well and strong again for the summit bid.ย Iย will keep you posted on developments.

Keep well and speak soon.

Brad

Looking up the Lhotse Face to the Yellow Band, Geneva Spur and South Col

 

From Camp 3 on the Lhotse Face looking back down the Western Cwm to the top of the icefall

Look what was waiting for us for lunch on return to Base Camp!

Brad.

 

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